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A Stroll Through the Plaka Area of Athens, Greece

For the third time in five days I went to the center of Athens and there was a demonstration so that all the streets leading to Syntagma Square and the Parliament building were cordoned off by the police. Today was the turn of the Ministry of Culture workers, so no public museums or art galleries were open. You can definitely visit the Acropolis and it remains the main attraction in Athens after all these centuries. As my taxi driver told me we crossed it to get into the Plaka (a circuitous, but very scenic route) “The steps may be new, but the rock is the rock.”

We took a wrong turn down a side street and only saw a stray dog. He was slightly upset when he heard the horn and had to be moved from his sleeping position in the middle of the road. I finally reached my destination – Kidathenaion Street and I’m glad we took a detour because I’ll be leaving Athens in a few days and I’m going to miss this area in the shadow of the Acropolis more than I can say.

If you start from Syntagma Square and walk along Mitropolis Street where the Cathedral is decorated, you go straight to Philenon Street and turn right in front of the Russian Church. This is the beginning of Kidathenaion Street and Plaka. Plaka means “joke” and this area was famous for its bohemianism in 19th century Athens. You can still see lovingly restored neo-classical buildings that were neglected and dilapidated thirty years ago. Over the years they have been restored to their former glory.

At the top of this marble street is a small eatery where you can get good coffee and pastries – cheese or spinach pies – traditional Greek snacks and international rolls, baguettes and wraps. There is also beer and soft drinks, including fresh orange juice.

Walk a little further and on the corner of Kidathenaion and Nikis Streets is Majestic Travel, a wonderful place but also a tour agency that I have used frequently over the years and that has always given me value for money and friendly service. In the corner to the right is a small shop that sells almost everything.

Cross Nikis Street and you will be in the tourist area with gold shops from cheap to expensive. There are traditional Greek tavernas, two pizzerias, a folk art museum and a beautiful Byzantine church opposite.

Cross the street to a leather shop on your left and a bar on your right and walk a little further until you find Plaka Taverna and the cafe bar opposite it. Or sit in the shade provided by the cafe-bar and large old trees. By this time you can probably do some food and Plaka Taverna has been my favorite for over thirty years.

When you’ve eaten Ambal on Adrianou Street and seen the remains of the Agora, walk past all the souvenir shops on both sides of that street. If you walk down that street, you’ll come to the remains of the Roman Baths in the Monastiraki area, where there are more café-bars and taverns, and where you have a clear view of the Acropolis.

Don’t let the demonstrations put you off spending time in Athens, the rest of the mainland, or the Greek islands. You can always find out about demos from hotel staff and tour agency staff. I was able to get through Athens without too much trouble when the roads were closed for demonstrations. Just be prepared for a small detour and pay about three euros more if you’re in a cab.

Come see Athens and walk my favorite streets! The country needs you!

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