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Ghana Life: The Road of Life

Motoring in Africa presents its own unique visions of heaven and hell. It is the human experience in microcosm, a journey through a world of contrasts where life unfolds in primary colors. There are none of the gray tones dimly remembered from childhood in the constant winter of English grammar school, which taught the sobriety and uncertainty of science and reason, but all is bright and beautiful in a world ruled by the boisterous confidence that ‘God will provide’. ‘ and ‘Everything will be fine.’

In the cool of the morning on a lonely road leading northward, a scene leaping suddenly half-a-quarter of an hour ahead in blue mist on a hill-top, spread in ocher by the broad sweep of the Sahel and green just sprung by a splash of burnt sienna, a succession of crows from the runway of the road lazily and swiftly and easily under the good wheels. The driver may be the motorcar is about to take off on its own while going. The inscription on the wall of the Red Fort in Delhi prompted the ancient Mughals to reflect happily: ‘If there is a heaven on earth, then it is.’

Yet hours later, in the afternoon sun, with dark glasses on the bridge of his nose, blindingly glaring at the sun, rolling down the windows to avoid the clouds or the red dust coming from the back of the truck, he was then frantically walking around. Stuck on the back of the seat to avoid suffocation, stuck to the seat with sweat glue yet jolted out of the seat by the endless potholes in the road, reducing future sleep time to crawling, the driver can be so tortured. Finlay to wonder Peter Dunne, ‘Why is it so hard for a poor man to get out of purgatory?’

A Ghanaian drives down the road as he journeys through life: enjoying the cold mornings and suffering the hot afternoons, but with the sure knowledge that he will reach his goal. He expects obstacles and delays along the way, but these are dictated by a higher power over which he has no control. Some misfortunes may be seen as manifestations of the evil thoughts of his enemies, but they are dispelled by the same abstract means by which they are believed to be the culprits. Every reversal is seen as misfortune and every breakthrough is hailed as luck, but the hope of ultimate success does not last long until the final destination.

In The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, TE Lawrence observed that in most men the spirit grows old and dies before the body. It is one of the wonders of Africa that in so many men and women the spirit burns fiercely with the infirmity and inevitable frailty of advancing years, and never ceases to struggle as long as material means exist. As reflected in the Akan proverb, ‘Until the head is torn, we must carry our hat’, the African spirit is neither satisfied by victory nor weakened by disaster, and is surprisingly immune to the usual long-term consequences. Kipling’s Two Rookies. Like African teeth, the African spirit has a lifetime of strength and resistance to decay that ensures lasting progress on life’s path.

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