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Manitou Beach, Saskatchewan: A Bit of a Cinderella Story

“The water. The salt makes it more salty than the Dead Sea and that’s the draw card. If it was fresh water we’d be like any other mountain diving lake,” smiles Eric Upshall, a recent re-elect. mayor of Manitou Village. He is a little proud, “And now we have bragging rights.”

Manitou water – which means ‘god’ in the Cree language – has long been known for its healing powers. Without a lifeguard, it is impossible to drown. Rumor has it that this water can cure smallpox, acne, and even liver disease. And it’s the only lake in Canada where you can read a book while floating. If you don’t shower after getting out of the sea, the salt will dry out and your skin will look like it’s dusted with powder, ready to be fried.

His History

Manitou Beach came to prominence in the 1920s and 30s. It had everything a vacationer could wish for and also overlooked places like Banff and Jasper. At the beginning of its career it counted three dance halls, two indoor swimming pools, stores, hotels, an ice cream parlor, and the YWCA.

By the 1980s, the curtains were closing and the beach was against the great stepmother: still breathing, but closing the mouth of death. ‘Beach cabin’ means pulling up a barn, cutting out a few more windows and slapping an outhouse in the woods together. The stone pit – where young people gathered to drink beer – was the most popular place on the beach.

What kind of infrastructure? The potholed roads were very difficult; houses were in various stages of decay. No one has ever lived on a pebble beach. It was a windy stage. And you could hear the cough of the last breath from the wings. These three evil sisters – no budget, apathy and destruction – had a high salary. The bears circled around, waiting for the curtain’s final cry.

Then, in October 1987, the Chalet Pool caught fire.

And the Manitou Springs resort and Mineral Spa — which have alternated playing the roles of goddess and pumpkin over the years — stepped in the door.

Built on the rocks of an old pond it took a lot of waving of wands to convert the Manitou Springs Resort and Mineral Spa into a year-round resort. The project began with community service – if you didn’t buy stock you weren’t allowed in the coffee line – and government support. For the first few years the rewards were free swimming vouchers, which many local shareholders had no trouble redeeming. Dale Hayter – a local businessman who was a major shareholder – bought and took the operation private in 1998 and established it as a family-run business.

Although it has had its own gates, exits and phone calls over the years, the ‘spa’ – as the locals call it – keeps to itself. This salt – remember that it is more bitter than the Dead Sea – is destructive and makes people ill-treated. Think about what highway salt does to cars and multiply by 25 to calculate the corrosion.

Twenty-five years, Manitou Springs Resort and Mineral Spa celebrated its anniversary in May 2012. Morphed into a full-time goddess, it now employs 50 people. The hotel has 102 rooms. The building also has a poolside cafe, a gift shop, and a massage service. And the view of the lake from Sam’s Steak House makes it a popular place to eat.

The Village Performs Cinderella

Like Cinderella’s rags to a ball gown, the barn disappeared in a puff of smoke. And instead of them there are no rooms, but houses, some of which are big enough to have a ballroom. The golden slipper was that in 2005 the village passed a law requiring all properties to be connected to water taps and toilets. Although some of the residents pulled ugly sisters and tried to confuse their feelings in shoes, the Cinderella factor endured. The flood caused the death of the honey cart business, but raised the attractiveness and value of beach goods. In 2005 the reverse osmosis water treatment plant became operational. Like a pumpkin to a stagecoach change, the village moved forward.

Cinderella came out to the girl next door and Manitou Beach has a “cool” air about it. Predictions though. So what kind of people go there? The two main groups are families and adults. It’s where you can take your Aunt Sue on vacation and know there won’t be any surprises. In fact, it’s so clean that you have to work hard to get into it. No grocery stores, no brothels. Putting it in the back seat of the car and watching a movie in the theater is a bit of a hassle.

Mike’s Beach Bar – with regular volleyball games on Thursday nights – doesn’t cut it as a takeout spot. Danceland – which bills itself as ‘world-famous’ for its tumbling horsehair on the hardwood floor – attracts people who want to polka or square dance. The shiny, massaged-together tango styles had to go elsewhere. And, really, what’s more ‘respectable’ than leaving money in the cash box if you take a round at Murray’s Disc Golf?

With many small Canadian resorts disappearing off the map it is refreshing to know that some are able to undergo cosmetic surgery and regain their place on the field. And Cinderella’s transformation at Manitou Beach leads the pack.

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